I booked my tickets in January for an October trip, so there was
so much that happened in between that made me question my motives of buying my
flight tickets so far ahead of schedule. This one week trip, to start in
Surabaya and end in Yogyakarta, was in one word - intense.
We landed in Juanda International
Airport, Surabaya, on a hot day. I changed some cash in the airport, just
enough to make it to my destination for that day. If I knew that changing money
in Surabaya can be a bad experience, I would have changed all my cash in the
airport. The rate given was Rp 3,400 for every RM1, but I could have gotten
better rates in Malaysia, really. My mistake.
Upon exiting, I took the Damri Bus (
you can easily spot them outside the terminal ) to the Bungur Asih Bus
Terminal.The journey took about 20 minutes, and cost Rp 20,000. I got off in
terminal to a pack of howling touts, all assuming I was going to Jakarta or
Yogyakarta. Ignoring everyone and since I speak a little bit of Indonesian, I
asked around for the bus that will take me to Probolinggo, the small town
closest to Cemoro Lawang, the village that will be my launching pad for Mount
Bromo.
I was very hungry but didn't want to
miss the bus, so I bought some suspicious looking bread that appears to be
covered in mold (turned out that mold was actually some cheese sprinkles) and
got into the bus. The bus was swarming with people who were selling everything
from little kuihs to colouring books. Some would just put whatever they are
selling on your lap or your bag and move on. You'd be left holding or looking
at whatever trinkets or food they gave you until they come back to take it ( if
you're not buying ).
Anyway, I paid Rp 27,000 for the 2 hour
ride which had me sleeping for a good part of it. I was a little wary of the
news I have read online that the Indonesians will try to drop you off at some
travel agent's and say that that is Probolinggo and make you buy their
exorbitantly priced tour packages. Thankfully that did not happen to me and I
was promptly dropped off in Probolinggo bus terminal.
I swear the sun was in the verge or
setting when I arrived, but the time shows only 3.30pm local time. I walked
outside and was accosted by the ojek riders (motorcycle taxis) who refused to
tell me where the minibuses are to get to Cemoro Lawang.They are actually
located OUTSIDE the terminal. Walk outside towards the main road and turn left
and walk a bit, you'll see some green vans that will go to Cemoro Lawang.
Problem is, they won't budge until they get 15 passengers, and it is going to
be hard to get 15 passengers at that time of the day, or you can opt to hire a
whole van for about Rp 450,000. I walked out and found a German couple already
waiting. Their faces lit up when they saw me. To kill time we were talking
about our journey and plans, and we were joined by 2 really good looking
undergraduate Dutch students who is on a semester study in NUS Singapore. So
we've got 5 people now, and after some discussion, we decided to pay Rp 50,000
each and leave. The driver agreed and off we went.
I was going to need a place with decent
technology and it's called Wi Fi, and most of the small losmens and homestays
didn't have that. It was 6pm when we arrived at Cemoro Lawang and it was pitch
dark, and he dropped us outside a homestay going for Rp 125,000 a night. I
didn't mind it, I would have grabbed it as the Dutch kids did, but there was no
Wi Fi, so I was forced to retreat. There was Wi Fi available a short walk up
the hill, and it also came with a cost of Rp 450,000 a night.
My eyes bulged when I saw the price,
and the receptionist, cool as the weather ( it was 10 degrees outside ) took
pleasure in watching my eyes come off my socket. I didn't have a choice, so I
took it, and was promptly showed to my room, which had 2 DOUBLE beds and a
crawling spider in it, for crying out loud.
I stared at the spider and it stared
back at me, before realizing it has taken the staring game a bit too far and
scuttled hurriedly under the bed. It was freezing cold, there was NO Wi Fi in
the rooms ( only the restaurant area ), and I was cold, tired and hungry. I put
on my winter garb and ventured outside into the cold air for some dinner when I
realized my phone was about to die, an the charger I brought with me doesn't
work with the Indonesian power points.
While having dinner I asked the kitchen
staff is someone had a charger that they can lend me, and thankfully someone
did, and even allowed me to use it overnight. Oh joy! I stepped out to the view
of the darkened skyline of Bromo and walked to my room, ready to be woken at
3am the next day.
Stir fry vegetables and rice for dinner
3am view at Bromo. Jeeps with their headlights on racing on the desert
Where I stayed in Cemoro Lawang
Failed attempt on star trail photography ^_^
At 2.45am I was awoken by a knock at the door ' Wake Up Call!!'
Perfect. We gathered at the restaurant area and was ushered into the waiting
jeeps. My jeep had a newly wed couple, a Oriental woman who never made any
conversations, and a mother and son pair. We rode in silence, our jeep sporting
a full on high beam flashing at the trail ahead of us. We started going up the
winding road of Mount Penanjakaan and stopped close to the peak, with many
jeeps and ojeks already there.
It was cold and still dark but I could
see the colours of the sky slowly changing; dawn was breaking. And there were
close to 400 people on the peak, all eyeing for the same sunrise spot!
 |
Sunrise over Mount Bromo, Tengger and Semeru, as seen from Mount Penanjakaan |
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| The crowd at the peak |
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| Sunrise at Mount Bromo |
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| Sunrise at Mount Bromo
|
After about 2 hours on the peak, we walked down slowly to
locate our jeep driver. He then proceeded to take us to Mt Bromo, where we will
have to hike to the crater rim. There are many ponies for hire at the foothills
of the mountain, but really, you should just take that walk which will take
about 1 hour. While I walked, the fine volcanic sand got into my shoes ( and
still there after I returned ). I reached the crater rim, sweating in hot
morning sun.
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| Ponies at the foothills of the mountain |
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| Mt Bromo Crater rim |
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| The stairs leading to the crater rim |
After looking on and remarking on the beauty
of it all, I hiked down to locate my jeep and my companions. Turned out to be a
tough thing to do especially when you only saw their faces in the dark and they
look different in daylight!
We arrived to the
hotel where we had breakfast in silence, and then I packed up to leave. Onward
to Karimunjawa Islands!
Useful info
1. If you are taking
the bus, ensure you get off in the Probolinggo Bus Terminal and not anywhere else.
2. Walk OUT of the
station and turn left. Walk for about 3 minutes and you will see a line of
green vans. Those goes to Cemoro Lawang. Be prepared to wait until it gets
full, or be prepared to pay extra. In any case, haggle, just like anywhere else
in S.E.Asia.
3. There are a lot of
homestays around Cemoro Lawang and they are dirt cheap. Unless you are going during peak season, booking ahead is
not really necessary. Some comes with hot water ( which you will need because
of the cold temperature ) and they all can arrange for tours to Bromo. It should
cost around Rp 100,000 per person, if not cheaper.
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