[ explore.dream.discover ]

I have been thinking of a Cambodia road trip to Angkor Wat since last year, and I finally made it happen. 7 days, RM700 and 3kgs of extra luggage later, here I am back home, blogging about it. Read on about the adventures!

 Day 1 / Day2

I left Seremban, taking the 8.30pm bus to Haadyai. The bus was your usual aircond and comfy bus, so no complains there. But it stopped at Bulit Jalil bus terminal for 2 freaking hours - that was annoying. Finally they decided to leave - settled for a long journey ahead.

Arrived Bukit Kayu Hitam at 6.30am - after Immigration checks we proceeded to Sakeo - the Thai border. There was a long queue, at 7.30am. Lack of sleep, hungry and irritated, I was not too patient already. The Passport Control at Sakeo was just like four toll booths - and no bag checks, mind you. No wonder so much of smuggling goes around there.

9am - bus lurched into Haadyai town. So much of Malaysian influence here - all Thai words have got Malay words directly beneath them instead of English. Got down, and was immediately surrounded  by touts asking me where do I want to go. Finally I asked one of them to drop me at the bus terminal ( evidently I missed the bus terminal - the bus stopped in front of their sales office not in the bus terminal )and he took me straight to a travel agency who quoted me 1500B for a ticket to Bangkok. It was too expensive and I know from my researches that the buses to Bangkok does not cost that much. I walked out and walked into a travel agency and asked if there are buses going to Bangkok and he quoted me 700B. Fine I took it and 5 minutes later the 'bus' arrived - it was a minivan with 11 Thai women in it.

Left with no choice I climbed in, and braced myself for  the 16hours journey. It was the most tedious ever. We stopped in several places to eat along the way. The plus point of the journey was I got to see most of Thailand's countryside which otherwise I would not have known existed. It was truly off the beaten track.

 The van dropped me off at Bangkok Bus Terminal at close to 10.30pm, and I had to find my way to Hualampong Train Station to spend the night as I have an early train to catch the next day. Taxi rivers quoted me 200B, and so I walked out ( again! ) and took a meter taxi and he dropped in front of a guesthouse for 140B.

 

Bangkok Bus Terminal
 

Baan Hualampong is tucked in a secluded corner of a quiet street, facing another gueshouse. The co-owner, Art - gave me my keys and  showed me to my room.I dropped my bag on the bed, emptied my pockets, washed my face and died on the bed.

 

my room in Baan Hualampong

 
Day 3

I woke up at 4.45am, but I remembered that Thai time is one hour behind us so it was really only 3.45am, so I fixed my time to local time and slept another hour lol. I mean how cool is that. I woke up at 4.30 local time and had shower, checked out and  had time for some coffee before proceeding to Hualampong Station, a 5 minute walk away.

 

Hualampong Train Station, Bangkok

 

Went to purchase my ticket, which cost me 48B, for 3rd class. Train leaves at 5.55am, arriving Aranyaprathet at 11.35am. We were delayed by 10 minutes, so I bought some sausage bun and sat in the train full of Thais and also backpackers - looks like I'm not the only one who decided to travel to Aranyaprathet in a 3rd class ticket :)

The journey was eventful, for the first time I saw Bangkok's slums up close, rubbish dump everywhere, people crossing the railway track like there isn't any dangers and food stalls inches away from the rail track.We passed metropolitan Bangkok's back lanes, took in the sights and smells, and passed station after station. The backdrop changed as we left Bangkok - it became more greener, more cooler. There was paddy fields as far as the eyes can see on the left and right of the track. It was really beautiful. This is Thailand's countryside which I would have seen otherwise.

                                

  

       

We arrived Aranyaprathet at about 12.10pm, a slight delay of the scheduled 11.35am. Once I got off, I saw a white girl speaking to someone who seem to be offering her transport to the border. Thinking that she was alone, I figured we could share a taxi or tuk tuk cost if its too expensive to go to the border.I went up to her, introduced myself and asked her name ( Anna ) and where is she from ( Iceland ) and she said she's travelling with another 3 girls ( all from Iceland )

We became instant friends, trying to dodge all the touts who was crowding around us and walked to a tiny 'shop' that said ' FREE Tourist Information ' so we believed that they would be able to advise where do we take the bus ( the bus supposedly charges 10B for the 6km journey to the border and tuk tuk driver was asking 50B per person ) but when we walked in, the female tout who was persuading us to go with her walked straight into the shop behind us and spoke to the owner in Khmer and the owner instantly told us there  isn't any bus to the border!
Now I know why so many website told us to be careful not to be ripped off by the touts in the Thai - Cambodia border.
To cut a long story short, me, Anna, Birna, Vigdis and Kristin walked back to the train station and refused to succumb to any touts when it started raining. And a tuk tuk driver must have taken pity on us, because he offered to take us to the border for 10B per person, the same amount we would have paid for the bus. We all squeezed in the tiny tuk tuk, with our bags and all, and started to the border, and the tuk tuk driver stopped in a place ( looked like a restaurant ) and asked Anna, Birna, Vigdis and Kristin if they have visa. ( Touts activities are rampant in the Thai/Cambodia border, it's always advisable for everyone to  get their visa online at the Cambodian Immigration online to avoid being ripped off and getting charged twice the amount of USD$20-25 per visa ) I was exempted from the visa, since I was from Malaysia, but the rest gleefully showed their e-visa which earned disappointing look from the tuk tuk driver and his cronies, left with no choice, he sent us to the border, we handed him the fare and walked happily together to the border.

 

 

  

 

Once we were safely stamped out of Thailand, it was a few minutes walk to the Cambodian immigration building, which looked better than their Thai counterpart. For maybe 3 minutes, we were in Thailand nor Cambodia. Haha. Well may sound senseless but hey , how many times you get to be between two countries at once?

It took slightly longer than expected in the Cambodian Immigration, but all of us got through. We met a guy who claimed to be working with the Cambodian Government and told us there is a free shuttle bus to the Poi Pet Transport Terminal which from where we could get a bus into Siem Reap. Soon we were on board a clean and comfortable bus and arrived in the Poi Pet Bus terminal in less than 15 minutes. We each paid US$9 per person for a minivan ride to Siem Reap which was 2 hours ride away.

Having been on the road for almost 2 days, I was so eager to finish the 2 hours journey and be done with it. We all got into the van with 5 backpackers from China, 2 from France and 3 from Belgium or something, and soon we were all shooting through the paddy fields and little Hindu and Buddhist temples, bound for Siem Reap.

 We stopped a Popular Guest House and it was raining heavily, but for some reasons I was not able to get to my accommodation at Rosy Guest House located about 1km away from the main street in Siem Reap. Left with no choice, I took the accomodation in Popular GH which cost me US$4 per room per night, with attached bathroom.

 

My room in Popular Guest House
 

 
By now I was already too exhausted to do anything, but I have a dinner date with my Iceland friends so I had a quick shower, emptied my backpack for something to wear and dashed out of the room. Anna and the rest were staying about 5 mins walk away, so as I was walking I saw them coming towards me, we went to a place called temple Club, which apparently had free Apsara Dance show. We had dinner ( I had club sandwiches ) and beer and it cost me US$4. We had such a relaxing evening that we watched all the dances, from Apsara to Peacock dance, and enjoyed the food.

  

               

We went back in the rain and I said goodnight to the rest when we stopped outside Popular. I went up to my room and was looking to refill my water bottle with some hot water to drink before I sleep. The restaurant was closed to I went to the reception to ask for some. What I got came as a total shock, the reception staff ABSOLUTELY REFUSED to give me any water - instead to asked me to go get my own water outside in the rain.

I told them that there isn't any shops open at that hour and its raining, and they had the cheek to say ' it's not raining THAT heavily, so you can still go '. I only managed to get my hot water after I threatened to report the incident to the boss. Talk about customer service. Hmph!

Anyway I wasn't going to let anything spoil or dampen my spirits for my next day's travel-ANGKOR! I went up to my room, made sure my camera and my phone is charged and turned off the lights. I am meeting Mr Mab, my guide, tomorrow at 9.30am.

Day 4

 After breakfast, Mr Mab was there to pick me up in his motorcycle. Angkor complex is just about 10kms away. We stopped to buy the Angkor Pass which costs US$20 for 1 day ( I wonder how much Cambodia makes just by selling Angkor Wat passes ) and we continued our journey through some jungles, and from afar I can see many tourist buses and many people walking, colorful stalls, children running around barefoot - and I realized I am approaching Angkor Wat, the largest temple complex in the world. The mere thought of it sent a tingling sensation through my veins. How wonderful to have the opportunity just to visit one of the world's most celebrated architectural history, just a week before my 30th birthday.

And there - right before my eyes - stood the magnificent building, and for a moment I just stood there and gaped in awe, totally oblivious to the hundreds of tourists and backpackers around me, and the street kids of Cambodia trying to sell me something. Here I am in Angkor, it was though a picture book I always read had come to life.

 

Angkor Wat entrance

 

 Beautiful Angkor ( top ) and one of the Bas Relief Galleries filled with intricate carvings, each telling a story ( bottom )

 

 The tour around Angkor was both marvelous and tiring.Mab didn't come in with me, so he told me he'll wait until I am done and he will be around the foodstalls. I took 2 hours in Angkor Wat alone, savoring every nook and corner of this great piece of architecture. I even went up to Bakan, the highest dom, and the view from there is breathtaking. It was a hot day, so I went to get something cold to drink and was immediately surrounded by kids trying to sell me something, from postcards to guidebooks to hats and t shirts. These kids, having seen so many visitors, can speak fluent English, some with accent, mind you and they appear to know all the capitals of the world ( I should have played Capital of the World with them instead ). I just told them that no, I don't need anything, thank you very much and went in search of some cold drink, and I picked a Ice Lemon Tea can and was asked to pay US$2. US$2 for Ice Lemon Tea?I told her in my country, the same can will only cost me RM1.50, which is equivalent to about US$0.50 only. Immediately she asked for only US$1.Oh well, Cambodians really really can rip you off when they want to.

After Angkor, we went to Angkor Thom, where Bayon ( The temple of Faces ) is situated. It was amazing. Everywhere I looked, there were faces lol. It was freaky as well. Rumour has it that the king built the temple to keep an eye on his kingdom.

 

 Me at the Temple of Faces ( Bayon ) in Angkor Thom

Halfway through it started drizzling and along with it came some powerful wind, which created a mild sandstorm. The  view was so stunning that momentarily I stopped taking photographs and took in the sight. I could see all tourists froze, everyone was looking skywards and some was trying to run from the sandstorm which was blowing from all directions. I just stood there and marvelled at it all until it all calmed down and the sun came up again.

It was a huge temple complex, with smaller temples here and there. I got really tired walking and taking pics but everything was just so amazing that I didn't want to miss anything. Mab was waiting near some foodstalls so we broke for lunch, I had something light to eat and guzzled down 2 cans of Coke.

After Angkor Thom, we went to Takeo, which is also as huge. For some reasons, I think Takeo was the best. We did not stop at Takeo, Mab said we'd go to Ta Phrom first and come back Takeo, as we'd be going back the same way anyway. 

Ta Phrom, the location of the famous Tomb Raider movie, literally had the word Tomb Raider and Angelina Jolie plastered all around. You have to walk a little to get to the temples, which is situated a little deep inside the jungle. As I was walking, I saw Anne, Birna, Kristin and Vigdis walking towards me! How wonderful to meet your friends in one of the famous temples in the world and we didn't plan it! We quickly made plans for dinner ( none of us has got a local line and international SMS is expensive so we were just quick to say we'll meet in MyHome ( their guest house ) at 8pm that night.

 Ta Phrom is magnificent with its huge trees  and ancient temples, its no wonder it was made as a filming site for an internationally acclaimed film. I loved every little nooks and corners and how you literally enter a door and come out through a different door into an entirely different place. It's also confusing, I got lost a few times lol. It's like a maze!

 

The walk to Ta Phrom  

Magnificent

It was getting a little late, about 5pm. I can't believe the whole day past so fast! But of course, Ta Phrom was wonderful, the Temple of Trees. The whole day I kept gaping in awe at all the temples, wondering amazingly how ancient people had them built - deep inside the jungles, hidden from public eye, for God knows what reason. 

 Last was Takeo, my favourite among all. By this time the battery in my camera died therefore I was not able to take any pictures of Takeo, but I didn't feel bad about it, since it was my favourite temple I just decided to take in all the memories in my heart. I walked round and round, stared at the steepest steps ( and even more! ) and just sat at one of the higher temple door, and looked out to peace and serenity surrounding it.

6pm, Mab and I returned to Popular, where I was just too tired and went up to my room, but I couldn't sleep so I took my shower and went to the Internet cafe to check what the rest of the world are doing in Facebook. 7.55PM, I walked to MyHome to check on my newfound friends. Vigdis and Anna was outside at the wooden table, waiting for me while Birna and Kristin was getting ready. We spent 15 minutes chatting up about days in the temples and we all agreed that it was a long day lol. Vigdis suggested a restaurant she saw on the way for dinner. Oh the joys of being on a holiday. We all agreed immediately. 

The restaurant was good, we settled and ordered our food, I ordered Amok, the Khmer's traditional food with a choice of fish, chicken, pork or beef. I chose the fish Amok. It was super super tasty!

     
 Where we ate on the second night             My super tasty fish Amok

   

                    Fried frogs!                              Anna demonstrating how to ;)

After dinner, we walked leisurely to the Angkor Night Market again, to get some souvenirs and look around. The market is just so colorful and I have cool friends with me so what else can I ask for. I got some souvenirs and just walked around and around, admiring the Cambodian culture.

  

         Angkor Night Market                           For my alcoholic friends

  

   Angkor Night Market dark version         Angkor Night Market bright version :)

It was raining slightly when we decided to call it a day. On the way back Vigdis was harrased by a child beggar who had another baby with her. She was crying for milk. In a country where begging and ripping off tourist is rampant, we wouldn't know who genuinely needs help. She held Vigdis' hands and refused to let go. At the end Vigdis took her into a supermarket and bought her a tin of dry milk, which she immediately stopped crying and seemed to show it off proudly to other street children, like a prize. I wonder how there kids must be feeling. Cambodia must be earning so much with tourists splurging hard currency, but yet poverty remains a big issue.

Just a few minutes from Popular we met Coen, who just arrived from Canada and was in search of a place to stay. We offered to show him a few and walked him to Popular, where he went to enquire while I exchanged farewells with my newfound friends who will be leaving to Battambang by boat tomorrow. My times in Siem Reap was really filled with good memories because of them. I'm gonna miss them A LOT. Tomorrow I will be leaving to Bangkok in the morning as well, so I better get back and pack. I did not sleep well, I figured I can always sleep in the bus, so I spent the night packing and looking at my pics in Angkor.

Day 5

7.30am, my bus arrived, full of backpackers bound for Bangkok. I was so hungry as I haven't had breakfast, and a lady was selling fresh baguettes on a rattan basket perched on her head. I did not have any riels left,  and I didn't know if the lady will have change for USD ( in Cambodia, they do not give you back change in USD even though you pay them in USD. They return back in riels, which is virtually valueless when you leave the country. $1 = 4200 riels )I asked this woman if she accepts Thai Baht, and she said yes, so I gave her 20B and took a fresh baguette.It was fresh and really tasty , or maybe I was just hungry lol.

 

 

 Random musings from Siem Reap to Poipet border

We arrived at the border, it was a hot day, and after waiting forever at the immigration checkpoint we were taken to a place with some shops, for lunch and logistics - those going to Bangkok in one van, the ones going to Pattayya in another, those going to Ko Phi Phi, Krabi, Phuket in another. I secretly envied those who were continuing their journey to Phuket. I would definitely go there again!By the way, our Bangkok van was full, with backpackers and our backpacks. The irony of it all made me smile. I had showered that morning but I feel so sticky and dirty already. It was raining heavily on the way to Bangkok, which we arrived safely about 5.30pm. 

Khao San Road - Bangkok's most famous street, was teeming with activities. I swinged my backpack and walked in search of a place to sleep, but can't help looking at all the happy faces, street vendors whipping Pad Thai from a small stove, the sights and the smells! Yum! I was hungry already, so I walked into the first gueshouse I found - Kawin GuestHouse and was given a single room for 220B per night. I gratefully took it, checked in, and threw my bag on the bed, and lied there for 30 minutes.

 

    Khao San Road                              My room in Kawin GuestHouse

  

      Getting ready for a massage              Crickets, scorpions, beetles for sale

 

                                     CIMB, why not you have a                                                                       mobile ATM here in Malaysia too?

 

  I had a nice time. I walked alone along the street, bought Pad Thai and Thai Mango Sticky Rice for only 50B and sat eating by the roadside, and walked again to the end of the street. Khao San never sleeps. There was exclusive restaurants, pubs, clubs and music was blaring loudly. There was stalls selling trinkets, and I bought a pure silver sun sign as a locket for my birthday ( according to the Maori tradition, the shape of sun represents a new beginning in life )and some souvenirs for friends, and walked contentedly back to my room.

Day 6

Today I will fly back to KL, my flight is at 3.15pm local time. I woke up, packed my bags, had a shower and went in search of some breakfast and decided to spend all the Thai Bahts that I have. I even changed an extra RM50 (about 488B ) for me to purchase some books. After breakfast, I walked around and was flagged by a tuk tuk driver, and asked me if I would like to go to the Buddhist temples for only 10B. 10B! I said OK, and off we went in a tuk tuk. Better than wasting the time looking around anyway. He took me to the Giant Buddha Temple, where I spent about 20 minutes taking in the breathtaking Giant Buddha.

  

The Giant Buddha and me

 

After that, he took me to another temple, and he said this temple is a lucky Buddha temple. Lucky Buddha? Hmm. Lucky Buddha temple didn't look very different, it was a very small temple but spotlessly clean.I wandered around and I was the only one there. Suddenly a Thai man entered and was shocked to see me. He asked me what am I doing here and how did I come. I told him I am just looking around with my tuk tuk driver waiting outside. He told me then that this temple is indeed a powerful temple, and he always came to pray for his family. He is an attorney who works for the Thai Government, who religiously attends meditation classes. Who would have thought! Before I left, he asked me to drink the holy water placed in a bucket in front of the altar, and to wish for what I want. I knelt down, wished for what I wanted ( travel more! ;) ) an drank the holy water, and left.

 

 Lucky Buddha temple, the big container in front is where the holy water is stored.

The tuk tuk driver left me at Khao San Road, where I walked to get a bus to the airport but unfortunately the bus never came. I was getting panicky by this point, so I dashed to one of the shops to buy an airport coach ticket, scheduled at 1pm. But it was already 1.05pm! Thank God I was in time, the coach was preparing to leave. 

I got off in Suvarnabhumi International, checked in, wandered about, met Mr Cees from Brisbane, Australia who was sharing the same flight as me to KL, and we exchanged stories on life and our culture. Our flight was delayed almost 40 minutes, which annoyed me, because I was so hungry. Finally we were called, I got my seat, bought some in flight pizza ( doesn't taste good but if you're hungry to the point of starvation and if you have extra bahts to spare, then take it).Read through the flight, and just was preparing to take a short nap, the stewardess announced that we're preparing to land! Eh??

And landed we did, after about 30minutes.I walked out, breathing in the Malaysian air, called Mahadevan who has came to pick me up from the airport, walked out of LCCT and waved at him , who was driving towards me.

What a journey it has been =)

 

Special thanks to: Each and everyone of you who gave me inspiration, motivation and advise, Anna, Birna, Kristin, Vigdis ( Iceland ) and Coen ( Canada ) for the unforgettable time in Siem Reap, Alex from Paris ( currently in Bangkok ) who shared your insights on life in Mumbai and France, Yuki ( Japan ) who just needed a friend in the border crossing to Thailand, staffs and crew at Kawin and Baan Hualampong, Mahadevan for unselfishly driving from Klang and picking me up at the airport, and everyone who followed me on my journey on Facebook.